Basic Socialization

If there’s something that’s even more important to me than enrichment, it’s socialization. Ok, maybe not more, but just as important. Socialization doesn’t mean you have to take your dog to the dog park or send him to doggy daycare. Socialization covers everything in the world around them. It involves desensitization in a positive way, creating happy associations with different experiences, objects, textures, people, things people wear and carry, and yes - animals. It’s imperative to create that positive association with the things that might otherwise seem foreign and scary, and to never push them through something. Challenging them is ok, but forcing them through a fear can backfire and traumatize them, creating a life-long reaction and breaking their trust in you beyond repair. 

When socializing with me, I will point out any possible stress signals in your dog (or any other dogs we may be near.) Meanwhile, here is a list of just some signs to keep an eye on:

• Whale Eye - this is when their eyes are wide, and you can see the whites in the corner. 

• Tucked Tail - if a dog’s tail is completely tucked, they have crossed threshold and you should remove them from the situation and create distance from it in a calm way, with a treat lure or simply ask them to follow you away. 

• “Joker Smile” and/or Furrowed Brow - a dog pants for many reasons, but when they’re stressed, you will notice the muscles around their mouth pulled tight, which makes them almost look like they’re smiling. Their brows can also be furrowed exactly how you might imagine a worried person would look. 

• Pinned Ears - When a dog is stressed, sometimes they pull their ears back. This is often accompanied by the whale eye.

Obviously, we’ll be doing some socialization together, but here is a list of just a few ways you can work between sessions! Make sure you bring your dog’s favorite treats or toy (whatever they have decided is their favorite reinforcer/reward.) REMEMBER: Do not yell at or scold your dog in any way for any type of response to a situation. If your dog shows any of the signs of stress or fear, calmly remove them as if nothing happened, while giving them treats. By doing this, you are NOT going to teach them to be afraid or pretend to be afraid. Their body is responding to a situation and they cannot control that, so if we pair something happy with it we can help them respond in a positive way. 

Surfaces

• Tile

• Long Carpet

• Short Carpet

• Linoleum

• Hardwood

• Metal Grate

• Grass

• Gravel

• Cement/Asphalt

• Ice

• Wet/Slippery Floor

• Sand

• Stairs (up and down)

• Ramp (up and down)

• Boat Launch/Dock

People

• Men

• Women

• Children

• Babies

• Teenagers

• Seniors

• Different Ethnicities

• Different Builds (height/broad/slender/etc.)

• People with Beards

• People in Uniform/PPE

• People in Hats

• People in Masks

Animals

• Companion Dogs

• Service Dogs

• Guide Dogs

• Cats

• Small Animals in Cages

• Large Animals (livestock, etc.)

Objects - Inside the Home

• Vacuum Cleaner

• Broom

• Hair Dryer

• Loud TV

• Loud Music

• Doorbell

• Electric Appliances

Objects - Outside the Home

• Bicycles

• Scooters

• Skateboards

• Shopping Carts

• Hand Trucks

• Crutches

• Canes

• Walkers

• Wheelchairs

• Baby Strollers

• Baby Carriages

• Backpacks

• Luggage

• Wagons

Additional resources: 

I recommend socialization as early as possible, but you will get different opinions from different trainers, veterinary professionals, groomers, etc. on what age is the right age. Here is the ASVAB Position Statement on Puppy Socialization, which is what I typically go by.

It’s sometimes difficult to describe body language in words, but there are a few websites with great photos; the AKC one, I like to refer to often. And my favorite book about canine body language and how to help communicate with them is a book by Turid Rugaas called On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals.

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