Crate Training

Not everybody plans on crating their dog, but I do highly recommend crate training for every dog. There will be cases such as vet visits, grooming appointments, etc. when your dog will need to be crated, and rather than adding stress to those already stressful situations, it’s better that your dog is comfortable and feels safe in a crate or kennel. This can be achieved by making sure everything good is given in the crate. Here are a few tips to get started!

  • Meals: However you decide to feed, whether it be in a regular bowl, a slow feeder, treat dispenser, snufflemat…they should be fed in the crate.

  • Favorite Toy(s): Store their favorite toy or toys in the crate. These things bring them joy, and storing them in the crate will help associate the crate with that feeling.

  • Enrichment: Dental chews, LickiMat, bones, and other calming enrichment involving licking releases endorphins and is a calming activity. Pairing it with the crate not only helps associate the crate with that feeling, but also keeps the mess contained.

  • Crate Cover: Sometimes a dog does better in a crate if they can’t see the world around them. It’s a good idea to have a crate cover to help them feel safe. I do recommend purchasing one designed for the size crate you have, because if they can get hold of a corner of a blanket or something else, you risk them shredding that and also injury to said shredding. Crate covers fit correctly and reduce that risk.

  • Correct Size: Your dog should comfortably be able to stand, lie down, and turn around in their crate. No more, no less. If you have a puppy who will grow into that crate, block part of it off (some come with a divider.)

Here are the steps to crate training once all the goods are established and added. If your dog consistently potties in their crate or tears up the bedding or pads, don’t feel bad if you have to leave them with no cushion until this behavior stops. Generally a dog won’t potty where they eat and sleep if they can help it, so that’s less common. But if they’re tearing things up, they’re either stressed or they’re not interested in what we’ve given them…or they just like to chew. There are some crate pads that are good for this as well. It’s important to remember not to fly through these steps too quickly!

  1. Never force. You can coax or lure, but going into the crate should always be your dog’s decision. Start the training by getting a very yummy treat, or putting their meals in the crate and letting them eat in there, with the door open…

  2. Leave the door open. At first, when the dog is just getting used to the crate, the door should be left open as to not scare them. Once they’re comfortable going in and settling, we can start closing the door.

  3. Close the door. Once the dog is happy to go into the crate and lie down with a toy, chew, or just to sleep, we can start closing the door. Begin by closing it and then opening it again right away. Praise/reward for the process. Repeat. 

  4. Keep the door closed. Now that your dog couldn’t care less when that door closes, it’s time to latch it and walk away for five seconds, come back, and open it again. 

  5. Leave the room. When your dog doesn’t seem to mind the door being closed and latched, step out of the room for five seconds. Return, open the door, mark/reward. 

  6. Gradually extend times.

Sometimes separation anxiety can be masked as an aversion to crating. First determine whether or not your dog minds being in the crate when you’re in the room or the house. If they don’t seem to mind that, the issue may actually be separation anxiety.